Escrow Explained — What Happens Between Offer and Keys

By Jesse J. Rivas  ·  Jesse Rivas Realty  ·  Lodi, CA  ·  April 29, 2026

In Part 3, we walked through writing your first offer — what goes into it, what contingencies protect you, and what happens when a seller responds. We ended at the moment your offer gets accepted.

That moment is exciting. It’s also the beginning of one of the most misunderstood phases of the home-buying process: escrow. Today, we’re breaking it all the way down.


So, What Exactly Is Escrow?

When your offer is accepted, you and the seller don’t just hand keys and money back and forth directly. That would leave too much room for things to go wrong. Instead, a neutral third party, the escrow company, steps in to manage the transaction from both sides.

Think of escrow as a secure holding zone. Your earnest money deposit goes in. The seller’s signed documents go in. Your lender’s loan funds go in. And nothing comes out until every single condition of the sale has been satisfied. Only then does the escrow officer release the funds to the seller and the title to you.

“Escrow protects both parties. The seller knows you’re serious. You know nothing changes hands until every condition is met. It’s the neutral ground that makes real estate transactions work.”

Who Is Involved in Escrow?

This is where first-time buyers often feel overwhelmed, suddenly there are a lot of names in your inbox. Here’s who you’ll be hearing from and what each person does:

Person / CompanyTheir Role
Escrow officerNeutral third party managing the transaction. Holds all funds and documents until closing conditions are met.
Title companyResearches the property’s ownership history to confirm the seller has the legal right to sell. Issues title insurance to protect you after closing.
Your lenderCompletes the loan underwriting process and ultimately wires the loan funds to escrow on closing day.
Home inspectorHired by you to inspect the physical condition of the property during the inspection contingency period.
AppraiserHired by your lender (not you) to confirm the home’s market value supports the loan amount.
Your agentCoordinates communication between all parties, tracks deadlines, and advocates for you throughout the process.

The Escrow Timeline — Day by Day

A typical escrow in California runs 30 to 45 days, though the exact length depends on your contract terms. Here’s how that time generally breaks down:

  • Days 1–3 Earnest money deposit. You wire your earnest money deposit to the escrow company. This is typically 1–3% of the purchase price and shows the seller you’re committed. It counts toward your down payment at closing.
  • Days 1–10 Home inspection. You hire a licensed inspector to evaluate the home’s condition — roof, foundation, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, and more. If the inspection reveals issues, you can request repairs, negotiate a price reduction, or, in some cases, walk away.
  • Days 5–21 Loan underwriting and appraisal. Your lender orders a home appraisal, and their underwriting team reviews your full financial picture one final time. This is when they verify income, employment, assets, and confirm the home’s value supports the loan. Don’t make large purchases or change jobs during this period — it can jeopardize your approval.
  • Days 5–30 Title search and seller disclosures. The title company researches the property’s history to confirm there are no outstanding liens, unpaid taxes, or ownership disputes. The seller is also required to provide disclosure documents covering everything they know about the property’s condition.
  • Days 25–28 Final loan approval and closing disclosure. Your lender issues a final “clear to close” and sends you a Closing Disclosure — a detailed document showing every number associated with your transaction. Review it carefully. Compare it against the Loan Estimate you received at the start of the process and ask about any differences.
  • Day 28–30 Final walkthrough. Before signing, you do a final walkthrough of the home — usually 24 hours before closing. This isn’t a second inspection. It’s a chance to confirm the property is in the same condition as when you made the offer, and that any agreed-upon repairs were completed.
  • Closing day. Sign, fund, record, and get your keys. You sign your loan documents (a stack of them). You wire your remaining down payment and closing costs to escrow. Your lender wires the loan funds. The escrow officer releases the funds to the seller. The county records the deed in your name. Then your agent hands you the keys.

Good to know

In California, buyers and sellers typically sign closing documents separately; you don’t have to be in the same room as the seller. Some escrow companies even allow you to sign remotely. Ask your agent what the process looks like for your specific transaction.

Closing Costs — What to Expect

One thing that surprises a lot of first-time buyers: the down payment isn’t the only money you’ll need at closing. Closing costs are the fees and charges associated with finalizing the purchase, and they typically run between 2% and 5% of the loan amount.

CostWhat It Covers
Loan origination feeYour lender’s fee for processing and underwriting the loan.
Appraisal feeCost of the home appraisal ordered by your lender. Usually $500–$800.
Title insuranceProtects you (and your lender) against any title defects that weren’t caught in the title search.
Escrow feesCharged by the escrow company for managing the transaction. Often split between buyer and seller.
Prepaid interestInterest that accrues from your closing date to the end of that month.
Property taxes and insuranceLenders typically require 2–3 months of taxes and homeowner’s insurance to be deposited into an escrow impound account at closing.

“Your lender is required to give you a Loan Estimate within three business days of your application. That document breaks down projected closing costs. Read it closely — and ask questions if anything looks off.”

What Could Delay or Derail Closing?

Most escrows close on time. But it helps to know what can slow things down — so you’re not caught off guard if it happens to you.

1 Appraisal comes in low

You offered $520,000 but the appraisal says $495,000. Your lender will only lend based on the appraised value. That gap has to be resolved — through renegotiation, covering it out of pocket, or in some cases, disputing the appraisal.

2 Title issues surface

Unpaid liens, boundary disputes, or errors in past ownership records can slow or pause the process. Your title company works to resolve these, but it takes time.

3 Underwriting conditions

Your lender may issue a “conditional approval” requiring additional documents — a letter explaining a gap in employment, proof of gift funds, updated bank statements. Respond quickly to avoid delays.

4 Last-minute credit changes

Opening a new credit card, financing a car, or making a large purchase during escrow can change your debt-to-income ratio and trigger re-underwriting. Avoid any major financial moves until after closing.

The Moment You’ve Been Working Toward

There’s something that happens when escrow closes and your agent puts that key in your hand. All the paperwork, the waiting, the back-and-forth, it becomes concrete in a way that’s hard to describe until you experience it yourself.

That moment is worth understanding every step that leads to it. And now you do.

In Part 5, we’ll talk about what happens after you move in — your first year as a homeowner, what to prioritize, and how to start building equity from day one.


Questions about escrow or the closing process?

Every transaction is a little different. I’m happy to walk you through what it will look like for yours, no pressure, just answers. JesseRivas@KW.com

Jesse J. Rivas is a licensed real estate agent serving Lodi and the surrounding Central Valley. He specializes in helping first-time buyers navigate the home purchase process from start to finish.

Your First Offer — What Happens After the Pre-Approval

Home Buyer Series — Part 3

In Part 1, we covered why your credit score is the foundation of everything. In Part 2, we walked through the difference between pre-qualification and pre-approval — and why only one of them actually matters when it’s time to compete for a home. If you haven’t read those yet, start there.

Today, we pick up where most buyers have been waiting: you have your pre-approval letter. Now what?


You Have the Letter. Now the Real Work Begins.

Getting pre-approved is one of the best feelings in the home-buying process. You’ve done the financial work, you’ve been vetted by a lender, and you have a number. You’re ready to buy a home.

But here’s what nobody tells you: having a pre-approval letter is not the same as being ready to write an offer. There’s a gap between “I’m approved up to $X” and “I know how to put together an offer that gets accepted.” That gap is exactly what we’re going to close today.

Step One — Finding the Right Home (For Real, Not Just on Zillow)

Browsing online is fun. It’s also a little misleading. Listing photos are professionally staged. Square footage looks different in person. And in a market like Lodi and the Central Valley, the home you fall in love with on a Tuesday night might have an accepted offer by Thursday morning.

Once you’re pre-approved, your search gets serious. Here’s how to approach it strategically:

  • Define your non-negotiables vs. your nice-to-haves. Bedrooms, location, school district, commute — decide what you actually cannot live without before you start touring. Emotion is powerful once you’re standing in a kitchen. Know your priorities before that moment.
  • Set up real-time alerts, not daily digests. In a competitive market, checking listings once a day is too slow. Set up MLS alerts so you hear about new listings immediately. Ask your agent to flag anything that fits your criteria as soon as it hits.
  • Think like a lender when you tour. A home must appraise at or above the purchase price for your loan to be approved. If something looks significantly overpriced for the area, that’s not just a negotiation point — it’s a financing risk. Keep this in the back of your mind as you tour.
  • Tour quickly, decide thoughtfully. Don’t rush the decision — but don’t sleep on a home you love. The goal is to be ready to move when the right one shows up, not to scramble after the fact.

Understanding the Offer

When you find the one, the next step is writing an offer. This is where strategy matters as much as enthusiasm. A purchase offer is a legally binding document, and every line of it has meaning.

Here are the key components you’ll need to understand before you sign anything:

TermWhat it means for you
Purchase priceThe amount you’re offering for the home. This may be at, above, or below list price depending on market conditions and comparable sales in the area.
Earnest money depositA good-faith deposit — typically 1–3% of the purchase price — that shows the seller you’re serious. It’s held in escrow and applied to your down payment at closing. If you back out for reasons not covered by a contingency, you may lose it.
ContingenciesConditions that must be met for the sale to move forward. The three most common are the inspection contingency, the appraisal contingency, and the financing contingency. These protect you — understand what each one covers before you waive any of them.
Closing dateThe date you’re proposing to take ownership. In California, 30 days is common, but sellers with specific timing needs may favor a buyer who can be flexible.
Included itemsWhat stays with the home — appliances, window coverings, fixtures. Anything not explicitly included in the contract can walk out the door with the seller.

“An offer isn’t just a number. It’s a package. Price matters, but so do terms, timing, and how clean the contract looks to the seller. A well-written offer at the asking price can beat a higher offer that’s messy.”

The Three Contingencies — And Why They Matter

Contingencies are your safety net. They give you legal ways to back out of a deal — or renegotiate — if something goes wrong. In a competitive market, you’ll hear pressure to waive them. Before you do, make sure you understand exactly what you’re giving up.

Inspection contingency: Gives you the right to have the home professionally inspected and, if significant problems are found, to negotiate repairs, request a price reduction, or walk away. Waiving this means you’re accepting the home as-is — whatever’s behind the walls included.

Appraisal contingency: If the home appraises for less than your offer price, this contingency lets you renegotiate or exit the deal. Without it, if the appraisal comes in low, you’re on the hook to cover the gap out of pocket — or lose your earnest money.

Financing contingency: Protects you if your loan falls through. Even with a pre-approval, final loan approval isn’t guaranteed until the lender has reviewed the property itself and confirmed nothing has changed on your end. This contingency gives you a clean exit if financing doesn’t come through.

Keep in mind

Waiving contingencies is a competitive strategy — not a routine move. In multiple-offer situations, sellers sometimes favor offers with fewer contingencies. That can make sense in the right circumstances, with the right guidance. But it’s a risk calculation, not a default. Talk through it with your agent before you decide.

What Happens After You Submit the Offer

You’ve submitted. Now you wait — though usually not for long. The seller typically has 24–72 hours to respond, and there are three possible outcomes:

  • ✓They accept. Congratulations — you’re officially in contract. Escrow opens, your earnest money is deposited, and the clock starts on your contingency periods.
  • ↔They counter. The seller liked your offer but wants to change something — price, closing date, or contingencies. A counter is not a rejection. It’s a conversation. Review it carefully with your agent and decide what you’re willing to agree to.
  • ×They decline. It happens. In a competitive market, you may lose a home or two before you get one. It’s not a failure — it’s part of the process. The right one is still out there, and your pre-approval is still valid.

Once You’re in Contract — What Comes Next

Being “in contract” means both parties have agreed to the terms and the deal is moving forward — but it’s not done. Here’s what happens between accepted offer and closing day:

  • Escrow opens. A neutral third party — the escrow company — holds your earnest money and coordinates the transaction. They’re the engine that keeps everything moving.
  • Home inspection. Schedule this as soon as possible. A licensed inspector will walk through the property and give you a detailed report on its condition. This is your chance to understand exactly what you’re buying — not to find reasons to back out, but to go in informed.
  • Appraisal.Your lender orders this. An appraiser visits the property and determines its market value. If it comes in at or above your purchase price, you’re clear. If it comes in low, your appraisal contingency gives you options.
  • Final loan approval. Your lender reviews the property and confirms your financing. Keep your financial life stable during this period — no new accounts, no large purchases, no job changes.
  • Final walkthrough. Usually 24–48 hours before closing, you’ll walk through the home one more time to confirm it’s in the agreed-upon condition and that any negotiated repairs have been made.6Closing day. You sign the final documents, the lender funds the loan, the title transfers to your name, and you get the keys. That’s it. You own a home.

“The period between accepted offer and closing is when most buyers feel the most anxious — and understandably so. There are a lot of moving parts. The best thing you can do is stay organized, respond quickly when your agent or lender needs something, and trust the process.”

A Few Things I Want Every Buyer to Know Before Their First Offer

Your first offer probably won’t be perfect — and that’s okay. There’s no substitute for the experience of actually going through the process. The buyers who succeed are the ones who stay patient, stay ready, and don’t let early setbacks shake them.

Communication is everything. Respond to your agent and lender quickly. In a real estate transaction, delays can cost you. Keep your phone close and your documents accessible during the escrow period.

Read everything before you sign it. I know the paperwork is extensive. Read it anyway. Ask questions about anything you don’t understand. This is likely the largest financial transaction of your life — you deserve to know exactly what you’re agreeing to.

Your agent is your advocate. A good agent isn’t just there to open doors. They’re there to negotiate on your behalf, flag red flags in a contract, read the market, and protect your interests throughout the transaction. That relationship matters.


Ready to Write Your First Offer?

Whether you’re already pre-approved or still working on your credit, let’s talk about where you stand and what the path forward looks like in Lodi and the broader Central Valley. The first conversation is free — and it might be the most valuable one you have.jesserivas@kw.com

Jesse Rivas Realty  ·  Lodi, CA

Jesse J. Rivas is a real estate agent based in Lodi, CA, serving buyers and sellers throughout the Central Valley and Contra Costa County. Before becoming an agent, Jesse personally bought and sold six homes — and brings that firsthand experience to every client.

⬅ Part 2: Pre-Approval vs. Pre-Qualification: Why Your Credit Score Makes All the Difference

Part 4 Coming Soon: Escrow Explained — What Happens Between Offer and Keys ➡

Pre-Approval vs. Pre-Qualification: Why Your Credit Score Makes All the Difference

Home Buyer Series — Part 2 By Jesse J. Rivas | Jesse Rivas Realty | Lodi, CA

In Part 1 of this series, we talked about why your credit score matters and how to build a strong foundation before buying a home. If you haven’t read that one yet, start there — it sets up everything we’re covering today.


Let’s Pick Up Where We Left Off

The moment you decide you want to buy a home, your credit score stops being just a number. It becomes the starting point for almost every conversation you’ll have with a lender.

And the first conversation you need to have isn’t about browsing homes on Zillow. It’s about getting a pre-approval — not a pre-qualification. There’s a difference between the two, and it matters more than most people realize.


Pre-Qualification vs. Pre-Approval: What’s the Real Difference?

These two terms get used interchangeably all the time — and they shouldn’t. They are not the same thing, and in today’s market, one of them is largely meaningless when it comes to making a competitive offer.

Pre-Qualification: The Estimate

A pre-qualification is a rough estimate of what you might be able to borrow, based on information you self-report. You tell the lender your income, your debts, your assets — and they run a quick calculation and give you a number.

No credit pull. No documentation. No verification of anything.

It takes about five minutes, it can often be done online, and it gives you a ballpark figure. That’s it. It’s a starting point for a conversation, not a commitment from a lender about anything.

Pre-Approval: The Real Thing

A pre-approval is a different process entirely. The lender actually pulls your credit report, reviews your financial documents — pay stubs, tax returns, bank statements — and verifies that you are who you say you are financially.

When you walk away with a pre-approval letter, a lender has done the work. They’ve looked at your actual credit score, your actual income, your actual debt load, and they’ve said: based on what we’ve verified, we are prepared to lend you up to this amount.

That’s a meaningful document. That’s what sellers and their agents want to see before they take your offer seriously.


Quick Comparison:

Pre-QualificationPre-Approval
Credit pulled?NoYes
Documents verified?No — self-reportedYes — income, assets, employment
How long does it take?MinutesA few days to a week
Accuracy of loan amount?Estimate onlyConditional commitment
Accepted with offers?Rarely taken seriouslyExpected by most sellers

The bottom line: Pre-qualification tells you what you might be able to afford. Pre-approval tells you — and everyone else in the transaction — what a lender is actually willing to back. If you’re serious about buying a home in today’s market, pre-approval is not optional.


Here’s Where Your Credit Score Comes Back In

Remember everything we covered in Part 1 — building your score, keeping your utilization low, paying on time? This is exactly why that work matters.

When you apply for a pre-approval, the lender is going to pull your credit from all three major bureaus — Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion — and they’ll use the middle score. That number affects almost everything:

  • Whether you qualify for a loan at all
  • What interest rate you’ll be offered
  • How much you’ll be approved for
  • Which loan programs are available to you
  • How much you’ll pay over the life of the loan

That last one is worth sitting with. The difference between a 640 credit score and a 740 credit score can mean tens of thousands of dollars in interest over a 30-year mortgage. The work you do on your credit before you apply isn’t just good financial hygiene — it’s money in your pocket.

What Lenders Generally Look For

300–579 | Poor — Most conventional loans unavailable. Very limited options.

580–619 | Fair — FHA loans may be possible, usually with a higher down payment.

620–679 | Good — Conventional loan access opens up, though rates are still higher.

680–739 | Great — Solid approval odds, competitive rates, more programs available.

740 and above | Exceptional — Best available rates and terms. Maximum buying power.

Every lender and loan program is different — these are general guidelines, not guarantees. Talk to a licensed mortgage professional about your specific situation.


Why You Should Get Pre-Approved Before You Start Looking

I know it’s tempting to browse homes first. It’s fun. It gets you excited. I’ve done it.

But here’s what I’ve seen happen when buyers fall in love with a home before they’re pre-approved: they rush the process, they’re not in a position to move quickly, and they lose the home to someone who was ready. In a market like Lodi and the broader Central Valley — where well-priced homes can get multiple offers quickly — being ready isn’t a nice-to-have. It’s a requirement.

Getting pre-approved first also gives you a realistic picture of your budget. A lot of buyers are surprised — in a good way or a tough way — when they see what they actually qualify for. Knowing that number before you fall in love with something outside your range saves you real heartbreak.

A word about the credit pull: One of the most common reasons buyers hesitate to get pre-approved is worry about the inquiry hurting their score. Here’s the reality: a single mortgage inquiry typically has a very small, short-term impact — usually five points or fewer. And if you apply with multiple lenders within a 45-day window to compare rates, those inquiries are typically counted as one. Don’t let this fear stop you from moving forward.


How to Get Pre-Approved: Step by Step

Step 1 — Check your credit before the lender does. Pull your own free credit report at AnnualCreditReport.com before you apply. Look for errors, outdated accounts, or anything that doesn’t look right. Disputing errors in advance can give your score a meaningful boost.

Step 2 — Gather your documents. The lender will need: the last two years of tax returns and W-2s, recent pay stubs (last 30 days), the last two to three months of bank statements, a government-issued ID, and information on any current debts or assets. Having these ready in advance speeds everything up significantly.

Step 3 — Find a lender you trust. This doesn’t have to be your bank. Working with a mortgage broker or a loan officer who specializes in home purchases can often get you better options. I’m happy to connect you with lenders I trust — people who are straightforward and actually pick up the phone.

Step 4 — Understand what you’re being offered. Ask questions. What loan programs are you eligible for? What’s the interest rate? Is it fixed or adjustable? What will your estimated monthly payment be? A good lender will walk you through all of this clearly.

Step 5 — Don’t make any big financial moves during the process. Once you’ve applied, avoid opening new credit accounts, making large purchases, co-signing for anyone, or changing jobs if at all possible. Any of these can shift your financial picture and affect your approval.

Step 6 — Get your pre-approval letter. Then we go shopping. Once you have that letter in hand, we’re ready to look at homes seriously. Now when the right one comes up, you’re in a position to act.


A Few Things I Wish More Buyers Knew

After going through this process personally six times — as both a buyer and a seller — here’s what I want you to take away:

Pre-approval is not a guarantee. It’s a conditional commitment based on your financial picture at that moment. If anything changes significantly before closing — income, debt, employment — it can affect the final approval. Keep your financial life stable from pre-approval all the way through closing day.

All lenders are not the same. Rates vary. Terms vary. Communication styles vary. It’s worth talking to more than one lender before you commit. Even a small difference in rate can translate to real money over 30 years.

Your pre-approval amount is a ceiling, not a target. Just because you’re approved for a certain amount doesn’t mean you should spend it all. Think about your monthly comfort level, your lifestyle, and what you want life to look like after you sign those papers.

And finally — this process is manageable. I know it sounds like a lot of steps, but it’s very doable, especially when you have the right people walking you through it. That’s exactly what I’m here for.


Ready to Take the First Step?

Whether you’re six months out from buying or ready to start tomorrow, the first conversation costs you nothing. Let’s talk about where your credit stands, what to expect from the pre-approval process, and what your options look like right now in Lodi and the Central Valley.

Reach out anytime: jesserivas@kw.com


Jesse J. Rivas is a real estate agent based in Lodi, CA, serving buyers and sellers throughout the Central Valley and Contra Costa County. Before becoming an agent, Jesse personally bought and sold six homes — and brings that firsthand experience to every client.


⬅ Part 1: Why Your Credit Score Matters More Than You Think Part 3 Coming Soon: Your First Offer — What Happens After the Pre-Approval ➡

Your Credit Score Is the Key to Your Front Door

Before you start browsing listings or imagining your perfect neighborhood, there’s one number that quietly determines what’s possible — your credit score.

By Jesse Rivas  ·  Jesse Rivas Realty  ·  First-Time Buyer Guide

When most people think about buying a home, they picture open houses, negotiating an offer, and picking out paint colors. But before any of that can happen, lenders are looking at a three-digit number that tells them who you are as a borrower. Understanding that number — and what it means for your loan options — is one of the most empowering things a first-time buyer can do.

What is a credit score, exactly?

Your credit score (most commonly a FICO score) is a number between 300 and 850 that summarizes your credit history into a single figure. It is calculated from five factors: your payment history, how much of your available credit you’re using, the length of your credit history, the types of credit accounts you hold, and any recent applications for new credit.

Think of it as a financial report card — lenders use it to quickly assess how likely you are to repay a loan on time.

“Your credit score doesn’t just affect whether you can buy a home — it affects how much you’ll pay for it, every single month.”

The score ranges and what they mean

Not all scores are created equal. Here’s how lenders generally classify them, and what each range unlocks:

Score RangeRatingWhat it means for buyers
740 – 850ExcellentBest rates, most loan options available
670 – 739GoodCompetitive rates, strong loan access
580 – 669FairFHA loans possible; rates may be higher
Below 580PoorLimited options; approval unlikely without work

How your score shapes your loan options

Different loan programs have different minimum score requirements. Here’s a look at the most common loan types and what’s typically needed:

Loan TypeWhat you need to know
ConventionalTypically requires 620+. The higher your score, the lower your interest rate and potential PMI costs.
FHAAccepts scores as low as 580 with 3.5% down. A lifeline for buyers building credit, though mortgage insurance applies.
VANo official minimum (most lenders prefer 620+). For eligible veterans and service members, this is one of the best deals in lending.
USDAGenerally requires 640+. Designed for rural and some suburban buyers with low-to-moderate income — and no down payment required.

The real cost of a lower score

Here’s something that surprises most first-time buyers: your interest rate isn’t just about the market. It’s about you. Two buyers purchasing the same $450,000 home in the same week can end up with very different mortgage payments based entirely on their credit scores.

A buyer with a 760 score might lock in a rate that saves them $200–$400 per month compared to a buyer with a 620 score — that’s potentially $72,000 to $144,000 over the life of a 30-year loan. Your credit score is, quite literally, a money decision.

“Two buyers, same home, same week — but thousands of dollars apart because of three digits.”

How to check where you stand

Before anything else, pull your credit reports. You’re entitled to a free report from all three bureaus, Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion, through AnnualCreditReport.com. Review each one carefully for errors, outdated accounts, or anything that looks unfamiliar.

Your score may differ slightly across bureaus, and lenders typically use what’s called the “middle score” when evaluating a mortgage application — so it’s worth knowing all three.

QUICK WINS TO IMPROVE YOUR SCORE Pay every bill on time — payment history is 35% of your scoreKeep credit card balances below 30% of your limit (lower is better)Don’t close old accounts — length of history mattersAvoid applying for new credit while preparing to buyDispute any errors on your credit reports immediately

When should you start?

Ideally, 6–12 months before you plan to buy. That gives you enough time to see meaningful improvements if your score needs work, and time to plan your financing strategy with a lender. Even a modest bump of 20–40 points can unlock a better loan program or shave a meaningful amount off your rate.

If you’re not quite there yet, that’s okay. A good real estate agent will help you think through the timeline and connect you with trusted mortgage professionals who can create a roadmap to get you ready.

READY TO START YOUR JOURNEY? Let’s talk about where you stand Whether you’re buying in six months or two years, knowing your credit is step one. I’m happy to walk you through what lenders look for and connect you with the right resources. Jesse Rivas Realty  •  Jesse Rivas, Realtor®

Next in this series: Down Payments Demystified — How much do you actually need?